Restaraunt Review - Ceiba
The pan-Latin Ceiba, with its inventive and audaciously spicy menu, represents the latest contribution to DC's dining scene from "Passion Foods" (the same people who brought DC Coast and TenPenh to grateful Beltway foodies). Diners at Ceiba will notice immediately the professionalism of these experienced restaurateurs, demonstrated in the attention to detail they have lavished on Ceiba's decor. The restaurant boasts a bar and five rooms in subtly varying themes. Its somewhat conservative use of dark woods and neutral colors is accented with imagery from a rain forest -- the vine motif in the carpet and floral upholstery of the banquettes, the mural of a Ceiba tree's colorful canopy in one room, and the bird of paradise trees that gracefully frame the windows in dining rooms that look out onto the sidewalks of Fourteenth and G Streets. The setting evokes a mood entirely different than the glitzy new Rosa Mexicana, with its cascading tiled walls and enormous rose-petal suspension light fixtures. Chiles provide the glamour at Ceiba.Before dinner, one of the knowledgeable and attentive waiters serves tortilla chips and a velvety pureed blend of pumpkin seeds, tomatoes, and vidalia onions, seasoned with jalapeno. The four ceviche recipes (which can all be ordered as part of a sampler platter) attest to the careful culinary research of chefs Jeff Tunks and Christopher Clime, and showcase their ability to create symphonies of flavor that harmonize the freshest of fish and vegetables with an array of spices from Brazil, Cuba, and the Yucatan. The wild striped bass ceviche, with sweet potato, corn and spicy Rocoto chili cream, is not for the faint of heart, but amply rewards diners who are bold enough to try it. The supple texture of the bass differs dramatically from the tendinous and tangy grouper ceviche, which is dressed with manzanilla olives and shaved radish. The golden-crusted anaheim chile relleno, stuffed with rock shrimp and goat cheese, is also tearful but rewarding.
The crispy red snapper vera cruz, artfully presented on a terra cotta platter, is spectacular. The flaky fish has a stunning persimmon crust that is seasoned with tomatoes, olives, capers and pickled jalapenos, and accompanied by a ragout of fresh vegetables. The rum and tamarind glazed tuna is served with a fufu mash of sweet potatoes and sweet plaintains, and is heavily seasoned with bacon. The dish brings to mind a German potato salad your grandmother might have made - if she were from Cuba or Brazil. The Brazilian braised pork shank feijoada is served with kale and a cassava meal whose grainy texture contrasts nicely with the tenderness of the meat. The sweet arepa cake is a soothing complement to the spicier entrees.
Judging from the dessert menu, pastry Chef David Guas has honed his talents in the kitchens of Havana or Miami's Calle Ocho. The chocolate served with his churros is in the traditional style, thick and not too sweet. The flan with cajeta cream has a lighter consistency than is typical, and a subtle amaretto flavoring. Although I am not a dessert person, the warm Cuban chocolate coffee cake, sumptuously moist and adorned with a refreshing mango glaze, is alone worth a visit to Ceiba.
The sleek bar, furnished in the dark wood that accents the dining areas, serves mojitos, capirinhas and cocktails, as well as a selection of South American beers priced from $5-7.
Ceiba, 701 14th St. NW, 393-3983, Mon-Fri 11:30 AM - 2:30 PM, Mon-Sat 5:30 - 11 PM, closed Sunday
